This is the first in a series of stories in which people survived death or drowning. ‘Near Miss’ is in fact the opposite of what is meant, but no matter.

A narrow escape from drowning happened in Inver Bay in June 1870. A yawl containing eight crewmen, capsized, and all were thrown into the water. Only one of the men could swim.  Fortunately two young men, named Brazer and Keefe, were out trying a new boat at the time.  By dint of great exertions and the skilful working of their boat, they were able to save the lives of the fishermen.  Brazer was a coachman employed by the local landlord, (Sinclair), and Keefe was a land steward

In November 1908, a cycling tourist stopped in Killybegs, and went to see the caves of Muckross. This is what he reported:

Having a few days at my disposal, and wishing to spend them advantageously, I determined to make Killybegs my headquarters. The first day or two were spent in sightseeing in the immediate neighbourhood, or boating in the pretty harbour.  With only one day to go I was advised to visit Muckross and see its famous caves.  Muckross is situated some six miles from Killybegs, and about the same distance from Carrick.  In company with a friend, I left the hotel about mid-day.  We found the road a bit hilly, but on the whole good for cycling.  The scenery surpassed all I witnessed before.  On the one hand there are ranges of mountains extending the entire route, and on the other we had a magnificent view of the Atlantic. For the greater portion the road runs within a stone’s throw of the water.  More than once we dismounted to watch the waves, hundreds of feet below, dashing against the precipitous cliffs.  We reached Muckross about one o’clock, after a most enjoyable spin.  We inquired at once for the caves, and having secured the services of a guide, in less than twenty minutes we were at our destination.  The road  brings you right down to the sea, and there in line were drawn up motor cars, motor bicycles, waggonettes, etc., all bearing their contingent to see the grandest sight to be seen even in wild Donegal.  We found our guide to be a very intelligent man, who knew his ground thoroughly, and gave a very lucid explanation as he went along.  The first point of interest shown was a large circular mound.  This he termed the mound of the hides. On a very misty night some years ago an Italian vessel lost her bearings, and was driven ashore at this point.  Her cargo consisted of hides, which were washed ashore, hence the name.  Further on we came to the rocking stone. This is a huge boulder – at least thirty tons in weight – with the centre of gravity so placed that a person standing on either end can weigh it up and down in sea-saw fashion.

Our guide here pointed out the limit of high water-mark even of spring tides in winter. On the 1^st March last he and two other men were engaged in taking some building stones from the beach.  The day was a stormy one, and the waves running mountains high.  It came on to rain, and the three men sought shelter under a flag – at least thirty yards above the highest water-mark ever recorded in Muckross – when without the least warning a huge wave washed over them, rushed inland for a considerable distance, and the men had to cling with desperation to the flag to avoid being swept out to sea.

Ten minutes’ walk now brought us now to the end of the peninsula, where the caves – except one, are situated. The caves are different to any I have ever seen.  There is a grandeur and boldness peculiarly their own.  It is not merely one cave, or two.  No! the nose of the peninsula is about two hundred yards in length, and the place is honeycombed with caves from end to end.  The impending cliffs reach a great height, and project out so far to form an arcade or an arched walk from one to the other.  One cave is known as the market-house, and here the waves have chiselled out tiers of shelves, reaching from the ground to the highest part of the cliff.  Further on in one of the caves the roof has a ceiling of immense boulders, whose surfaces are perfectly level.  There is one which measures at least twenty feet square set in the centre of the ceiling, and surrounded  by others almost equally as large, and all having a decided rent of some inches along the edges.  One would almost consider it an impossibility that they could remain suspended as it were, in the air.  When one of these falls, well!  I would not like to be near the caves that day.  To render this cave more sublime there is a large stone table, on which tourists have a picnic, set directly under the largest of these hanging flags.  Our guide told us that there are many tourists who have not sufficient nerve to enter this cave at all.  What surprised me most was, what is locally known as the shifts. There are about a dozen immense square blocks of stone to be found in groups amongst the various caves. We were told that when the storms of the coming winter are over these blocks will occupy a different position altogether, and where there are six standing today perhaps not one would be found next spring.  From actual measurement, I have no hesitation in saying the largest block there will weigh eighteen tons.  When the storm is not too severe these blocks are moved backwards and forwards gently, with the result that the floors of the caves in many places are highly polished, and can only be walked upon with the greatest care.  Although the guide assured us that the tide had yet to come for two hours, yet the shore is so awfully broken that it seemed to us the mountainous sea would overwhelm the whole place.  Being such a distance from the entrance, we had a kind of unnatural dread of having our retreat cut off by the incoming tide.  We were also shown the spot where some years ago a poteen maker took refuge from the police and gaugers.  He was chased to the top of a precipitous cliff, and, as they thought, jumped clean over into the sea.  There is one cave which can be reached only by requisitioning a boat.  It is called the pigeon cave.  We were astonished to find fishermen here when we entered, with lights burning, and digging for lug or bait for fishing.  The place is much frequented by seals.  As seal oil is very valuable for sprains, etc., a supply can always be had in the cottages in Muckross.  We traversed the cave for about a mile, and when we returned the tide was almost full.  As far as I could gather from the oldest inhabitants, this cave extends about two miles inland, and has an outlet in one of the mountains.  There was a clergyman in Muckross this day also, who had spent long years on the Australian mission, had travelled a great deal in America and Europe, and he said that he had never seen anything to surpass the caves of Muckross.  Unquestionably the caves well deserve the fame they have long since achieved, and no tourist worthy of the name, ever visits Donegal without leaving the impress of his feet behind him in the strands of Muckross.  R.F.J.

There is very little information on the actual building of the Industrial School. Some correspondence about the source of fresh water for it has survived.  It was decided that the main supply should be drawn from a small loch in the Brocky area about a mile to the west of the School.  The contractors, Collen Bros, sent in a price and specification for piping water from this source:

QUOTE FOR WATER SUPPLY TO SCHOOL

We propose to excavate for and provide and lay a 2” cast iron water pipe, weight about 2 quarters, to 6 feet in length, joints made with lead and well caulked with Dr Smith’s solution, from Lake to Building. Also provide and fix on same 2 sluice valves, 2 keys for same, 2 rose heads and 3 air valves, all fitted complete.  Also excavate for and build a filter chamber, size 10’ by 6’ by about 6’ in clear, bottom 12” thick, division wall 12” thick, all in good concrete, top to have four railway bars across it, and form 2 manholes in same with galvanised covers.  Also 3 fine gratings in division wall and fill chambers with suitable gravel as filter, all complete, protect rose heads in lake by posts driven in stones, &c.  All for the sum of £300.0.0, say three hundred pounds. (RDA 11 May 1895).

As the pipe had to be laid through several fields, the owners, John McAdora, Ann Kelly and her son John; and John McIntyre were approached and gave their official permission. (RDA 29 July 1895). Again, solicitor Maguire had to be called in to oversee the signing of documentation for the permissions.  The reason for all the red tape was that the contractor had begun digging for the water pipe on John McIntyre’s land without asking his permission, and McIntyre had objected, so Maguire had to go through all the correct procedures.

ASSISTANT TEACHER Wanted, (R.C.). Strictly Temperate. Able to teach Irish and Singing.  Applications without good Recommendations useless.  Fixed salary.  Apply, stating Age, Qualifications, &c., Industrial School, Killybegs.  (15 May 1901).

Teacher wanted for Killybegs Industrial School. R.C. Salary £20 yearly, with board and lodgings; good testimonials are necessary. Apply to Manager, stating age, qualifications.               14 January, 1899.

We can see the origin of the Kilcar marching bands in this report from 140 years ago:

On St Patrick’s Day, at an early hour, the silence of the morn was broken by the pleasing sound of fife and drum playing favourite national airs along the streets of Kilcar village. Shortly after ten o’clock a procession was formed, preceded by flag bearers, and followed by a fife and drum band.  The members of the procession wore green scarfs, with white border and fringe, and a white cross on each end, white sashes, green neckties, and green ribbons around their hats.  One of the flags was very beautiful, representing on one side ‘the harp’, with the words Erin Go Bragh; on the other, the Sunburst, Round Tower, and Wolf Dog.  A second flag had on one side a representation of our Patron Saint, and on the other the inscription God Save Ireland.  The procession being joined by members from Killybegs bearing flags, they marched to the chapel where they attended Mass, after which they marched in the direction of Killybegs, a distance of some miles.  They then turned back and marched towards Carrick, followed by thousands of lookers-on, who much admired their good order and conduct.  Here they were heartily cheered by the multitude awaiting them; and those of the party who belonged to that district went to their respective homes.  The main body of the processionists marched back to Kilcar, where they dispersed, every man going immediately to his house.  It is gratifying to find that not one of the processionists, not even the thousands who accompanied them, was known to enter a public house on that day.  Much credit is due in this locality to Mr. C. O’Donnell, who presented the party with a beautiful and costly flag; also to Messrs John Gallagher, P. Murray, M. McGuire, and M. Cassidy, the gentlemen who, with Mr. O’Donnell, acted as officers on the occasion.  They exerted themselves successfully in organising the party, and must feel happy that all passed off quietly and respectably.

My book, St Columba’s Industrial School, was published last year.  Perfectly done?  Not exactly; here are some of the mistakes that have come to light since:

1. The list of Chapters at the beginning does not always correspond with the page numbers – there is a slippage of two or three pages.
2. Page 339: The boat, Ard Finnian, D402, was not built for Shemie Corr, but for Paddy Sugrue of Howth.

And here is the first of the things that did not make it to the final version:

 Omissions from St Columba’s Industrial School (1).

 During my time in the Boatyard each new boat setting out on a passage to its home port was monitored by the foreman, Charlie Conaghan, until it arrived safely.

The smaller boats that had no radio equipment were tracked using the Garda stations on the coast, which were alerted to the approximate time of the boat’s passing their district. The Garda were always very co-operative in this kind of exercise, and went out of their way to report back on a sighting or arrival of the boat and crew.  The phone system then was primitive and slow, but the method worked very well. When the Garda at the boat’s destination, who had been given an approximate ETA, reported its safe arrival, the Yard personnel could relax.  Before the phone system reached Killybegs, any such scheme had to rely on the Telegraph, and would have been very cumbersome.

In 1929 some Easkey fishermen had a yawl, built at the Boatyard, and set off for home. The bigger boats were always supplied with masts and sails, (Tommy Cunningham of Spout street being the rigger), but the Easky men had oars only.  The men on board were: Michael Munnelly, Killeenduff, Easky, aged 30, married, six children; William Leonard (20) Easky, single; Patrick Weir (30), Fortland, Easky; Thomas Killeen (30), Easky.

It was in March when the men rowed out of Killybegs harbour for home, as this report explains:

‘The feared loss of the Easkey fishermen who had left Killybegs in an open boat, and were not heard of for several days caused anxiety in the town. Rev. J. Deeney, Rector of St Columba’s Industrial School, where the boat was built, was in touch with the relatives of the missing men during practically all the time, but unfortunately could not give them any consoling news.  On Saturday the Government patrol steamer, Muirchu, arrived in the harbour.  Father Deeney went on board and suggested visiting Inishmurray Island.  The captain agreed, and a couple of hours afterwards the vessel reached the island.  A boat was lowered and a few of the men went ashore.  Immediately on landing they learnt of the safety of the missing men.  It appears that the boat was not equipped with sails, and that progress by rowing was necessarily slow.  Shortly after leaving Killybegs a dense fog enshrouded them.  Bereft of a compass, and in strange waters, the crew were absolutely helpless.  They continued rowing, but having provisions for only a few hours’ journey, their food supply soon became exhausted, and their powers of endurance consequently curtailed.  Fortunately the sea was perfectly calm.  After 36 hours of rowing they knew not whether they sighted land through the fog.  It proved to be Inishmurray.  They landed, and were well looked-after by the hospitable islanders.  They resolved to remain on the island until the fog cleared away, but had no means of communicating with their friends.  The arrival of the Muirchu was timely in that respect, as messages were sent to Easkey as quickly as possible, and all anxiety allayed’.

It’s time to leave the land for a while, and post some stories of the sea:

‘On Monday, 12^th March, 1827, about noon, during a heavy gale, as Archibald and William Clarke were conveying Miss Margaret Cochrane across the ferry from Greencastle to Magilligan Point, when about a hundred yards from the Magilligan shore the boat upset and, awful to relate, these three individuals were almost instantly consigned to a watery grave.  A fourth person on board, a lad named John McKeevers, who had charge of the helm, narrowly escaped death by climbing on the keel of the boat.  The two unfortunate brothers who perished were as expert and respectable boatmen as any on our river.  One of them was only a few months married.  Miss Cochrane was an amiable and interesting young woman; she had been on a visit for some time at her brothers, William Cochrane of Derry, and George Cochrane of Quigley’s Point, and was hastening home to her father in Portrush, who was anxiously looking out for her return, when the dreadful catastrophe occurred’.

Not sure if this is Ulster-Scots, but here goes.  It was written in 1917:

Am comin’ noo tae a very important place ca’d Killybegs, on the sea coast, an’ yin o’ the nicest wee places yin cud weesh for. This is anither terminus o’ a branch o’ the wee Donegal railway, an’, like ither places, the road an’ the rail rins sidey for sidey.  Killybegs has yin o’ the best an’ safest harbours in Ireland, an’ has a depth o’ 24 feet at the deep water pier, which they say cost £10,000. There’s a lichthoose at the entrance, at a place ca’d Rotten Rock, an’ the quay is juist close tae the hotel on the ither side o’ the street.  A guid when o’ships o’ the Armada wur wrecked alang this coast, an’ yin o’ the Spanish captains wha escaped frae a wreck said the Irish wur guid luckin’, the weemen beautiful but badly clothed. (I suppose that was afore the days o’ the Donegal tweed). The people lieve on yin male a day o’ oaten breed an’ soor milk, an’ meat on fast days.  Weel, there has been a change since then, for ivery body lucks tae hae plenty tae baith eat an’ drink in Donegal.