The Lobster War — or how the Frenchmen were finally run to ground off Donegal

When Napper Tandy landed at Burtonport in 1798, he arrived just in time to hear the thunder of defeat echoing from the Donegal coast, where the French fleet had been shattered. One hundred and thirty-eight years later, history—smaller in scale but no less spirited—prepared to repeat itself. Once again, French vessels would come to grief in the waters of Donegal.

French-style pots

For years, the French well-boats had haunted the Irish coast like silent predators, prowling for lobsters and crawfish. They grew bold in the 1930s, emboldened further when Britain had withdrawn the last of its patrol cutters in 1923. With only a lone fishery protection ship—the ageing Muirchu—the Irish Free State struggled to defend its long coastline.

English trawlers were brazen enough, but the French were thieves. They plundered lobster pots openly, guns at the ready. Fishermen who dared intervene were met not with words but with gunfire. The French lifted Irish lobsters, set their own crawfish pots, and vanished over the horizon with their living cargo held in well-tanks. The Muirchu made her coal-runs to Killybegs, but each year she vanished to Birkenhead for repairs, leaving the coast exposed.

So, in the summer of 1936, Donegal lay undefended—its waters free for the taking. Or so the raiders believed. They had not reckoned with Garda Superintendent Tom Martin.

Recently posted to Killybegs, Martin was no ordinary official. A former old IRA man and Flying Squad veteran, he had once hunted the Black and Tans through the countryside. Now he was in charge of a newly strengthened divisional headquarters—one sergeant and six guards—and he intended to defend Donegal’s waters where the Navy could not.

As foreign trawlers once again descended—whitefish to Fleetwood, shellfish to France—Donegal’s fishermen watched helplessly. But when two French well-boats were spotted at Glen Head emptying pot after pot, word reached the Guards. The French skippers were already named: François Saladin and Yves Kersalé.

The Glen sergeant asked permission to give chase. Martin’s answer was simple: he would lead it himself.

Dingle men to the rescue

But first he needed a boat—and no Donegal skipper would risk his livelihood, or his life, against armed Frenchmen. Salvation came from the south: a handful of Kerry fishermen working from Killybegs, who knew French piracy all too well from their own coast. They stepped forward without hesitation.

Martin hired the Naomh Ruairí, newly built in Killybegs Boatyard for Tommy Brosnan of Dingle—a sturdy, carvel-built craft, fully decked and rigged for both sail and engine, a rarity in those waters.

On 23 July 1936, Martin and his armed Guards boarded her, Lee-Enfields slung over their shoulders, and steamed out of Killybegs. Off Teelin, the fugitives were sighted. Signals were ignored. Martin fired a warning shot across the bow. Still the French pressed on.

Then came the volley.

Gunfire cracked across the water. The French skipper pretended to surrender—only to throw up sail at the last instant and open fire on the Naomh Ruairí. Bullets whistled through her rigging. The Guards returned fire, but the Frenchmen fled north through the Sound of Rathlin O’Beirne and making for Arranmore.

But this time Donegal was ready. Gardaí in the Rosses had been alerted. When the French approached Burtonport, thinking themselves safe, armed Guards were waiting. The crews were arrested; the boats seized and towed in triumph into harbour.

In court the charges were: fishing in prohibited waters, improper markings, unlicensed firearms. Saladin was fined £82, Kersalé £66; both lost their catch and their gear. Held in Burtonport barracks, they cooked their own meals and threatened hunger strike as their solicitor, Pa O’Donnell, appealed desperately to the French Consul.

At last, on 4 August, the fines were paid. The boats were released, and the skippers allowed to buy back their equipment for £15—a final indignity.

Jack Barry prosecuted; L. J. McFadden defended, with J. W. McLean of Dungloe interpreting the Breton French. The diplomatic ripples travelled far enough that a French fishery-protection ship, the Quentin Roosevelt, appeared off Donegal weeks later—a polite reminder that France, too, could show the flag when required.

Superintendent Martin settled in Killybegs for life, respected in the courts and in the town’s cultural life. He never lost his ease with a rifle. Even in retirement he was a hunter—foxes replacing Frenchmen. In 1937 his little fox terrier became a legend in its own right, killing five foxes in a single outing at Stonebrook, Loughros Point.

And so ended the last great sea chase of the Donegal lobster wars—fought not by navies, but by fishermen, Guards, and one determined superintendent who refused to yield Ireland’s waters to foreign poachers.

Many will visit the well on this cold, bright day, the waters of the harbour below placid in the sunshine.

St Catherine of Alexandria came to the TV screen last month when next door’s king and queen visited the Sistine Chapel for a prayer service.

Whether they noticed St Catherine in her green robes above their heads we don’t know.

Michaelangelo painted nude figures in the frescoes, as he wished to indicate that they had been Divinely created. Come the Reformation, the figures were considered to be obscene, and the Pope of the day ordered them to be clothed. Another artist painted a copy of the Last Judgement before the covering took place, so the original state of the figures can be seen.

The frescoes were cleaned and restored in the 1990s, and most of the covering was removed, but not all.

Some of those still covered are St Peter, St Bartholemew, and St Catherine.

Staying with the Italian theme, here is a picture of the Eremo di Santa Catarina del Sasso (St Catherine’s Hermitage on Lake Maggiore).

This tradition is that this Hermitage was founded by a rich merchant who was saved through the intercession of St Catherine when he was caught in a storm, on Lake Maggiore. There are versions of this story told about St Catherine’s Well in Killybegs, but they can be regarded as a kind of universal tradition, and not necessarily true.

Many artists have painted St Catherine. Here is a picture by a German artist.

The Beheading of St Catherine of Alexandria by Lucas Cranac the Elder

One of the remotest national schools in Donegal stood about ten miles equidistant from Ardara, Kilcar, and Carrick.  This was Crove/Croibh National School, No. 3499, which was founded about 1846.

Here generations of scholars ‘toiled up the steep hill of life’ to quote Thomas C. MacGinley, and toiled they did when learning their handwriting.  This basic skill, which now seems unnecessary, was a vital subject in primary schools (still is) as it enabled the pupils to deal effectively with the other subjects.

In Ireland the great influencer of children’s handwriting was Vere Foster (Google him), whose copy books were in use in every National school in Ireland, including Crove, up to the 1950s.

Here’s an image of a Vere Foster copy book which was in use in Irish schools up to the 1950s.

Below are a few examples of the Crove scholars’ handwriting from the 1920s and 1940s. First up is John Maloney from 1932. The first line was already printed, and the pupil had to copy another three lines. This was repeated twice.  John Maloney’s script is so perfect that it is hard to distinguish between the original and his writing. Did he go on to study calligraphy?

John Maloney again:

Here’s Mary Gavigan’s Irish script, 1922:

From Philomena Cannon, 1937:

Here’s Mary Ann Cannon’s compositions, 1946:

Mary Gavigan again, 1923:

Vere Foster suggests more supervision of teachers:

Much later, in 1895 Vere Foster ruffled the feathers of both the teachers and the school managers of South West Donegal by suggesting that the teachers of Ireland get an increase in salary, but would then have to receive more supervision.  At a meeting of the clergy and teachers in Kilcar in April 1875, this suggestion was voted down.  Some of the teachers present on that day were: J. Gallagher and P. Murray, Kilcar N.S.; T. C. MacGinley, Croagh N.S.; J. Fisher, Muckross N.S.; P. McCloskey, Meenavally N.S.; P. McIntyre, Carrick N.S.; C. Cunningham, Malinmore N.S.; J. Harvey, Crove N.S.; R. MacGinley, Castletown N.S.; F. Carr, Coguish N.S.; C. McDevitt, Straleel N.S.; Mrs Cassidy, Kilcar N.S.; Miss O’Donnell, Teelin N.S.; John C. Ward, Killybegs N.S. (Commons School).

The quantity of fish, in tons and cwts landed by each boat, and the amount in dues payable to the Harbour Master

OWNER	BOAT	WHITE FISH	FISH MEAL	FISH DUES	CRANS
Charles McGowan	Pursuit	8-14	—	£2-3-6
Patrick Moore	Brothers’ Hope	11-1	1-8	£2-17-3
Neil Doherty	Fisher Lass	23-12	6-10	£6-7-9
Jim Doherty	Naomh Fionnan	25-14	3-9	£6-13-9
Frank Doogan	Realt Na Mara	20-15	4-13	£5-10-9
Seamus Doherty	Elizabeth Campbell	10-1	1-15	£2-12-11
Connie Devenny	Ros Mhuire	6-9	0-8	£1-12-11
Michael Roarty	Ros Geal	20-18	2-9	£5-8-3	—
Patrick Kelly	Lagun	12-5	13-18	£2-3-5	29
Manus Boyle	Donegal	6-15	0-15	£6-1-3	34
James McLeod	Muiranna	10-2	3-13	£2-3-5	261
Frank McCallig	Meta Bruce	7-3	16-9	£6-8-3	271
John McCallig	Marie Angelique	8-9	13-6	£8-13-3	443
James Boyle	Janireh	5-17	10-12	£6-13-5	353
Charles Gallagher	Mothers Wish	14-19	3-8	£10-11-2	525
Danny Gallagher	San Martin	1-6	—-	£6-9-9	493
Thomas Watson	San Paulin	15-18	27-7	£14-0-4	639
Teddy O’Shea	Sheanne	4-7	11-0	£9-0-6	569
Willie McCallig	Deirdre Maria	21-3	18-2	£6-7-8	678
Denis Carbery	Carraig Una	0-16	8-11	£7-8-10	528
Killybegs Trawlers	Yves Jean Gildas	27-13	52-10	£12-19-3	169
Pat Moore	Undaunted	11-19	3-0	£4-3-3	076
Albert Swan	Mallrin	20-9	4-9	£10-3-0	376
Michael Callaghan	Les Brisants	13-18	15-8	£5-17-8	100
David Thompson	Dayspring	3-3	0-14	£1-16-4	078
John Murrin	Brill	10-8	11-4	£5-12-4	174
Seamus Murrin	St Catherine	8-17	4-10	£2-11-0	—-
Thomas Murrin	Ard Carna	15-1	5-8	£4-12-8	037
Martin Moore	Magnificent	5-7	4-9	£2-2-3	047
Constantine Murrin	Moravia	7-3	2-15	£2-0-11	004
Maurice Moore	Girl Eileen	4-13	0-5	£1-3-8	—
Totals	31 boats	364-15	252-5	£183-11-7	5884

Those in bold are Rosses boats

The figures in columns 3 and 4 are tons and hundredweights, a system the Department used since the foundation of the State.   On the other hand, the fishermen landed their white fish by the box (of approx. 7 to 8 stones).  One box was listed by the Dept as a hundredweight, or ‘cwt’ for short.

The herring were landed as ‘Crans’, a cran being 4 wicker baskets of fish.  There were approx. 7 crans to the ton. 

Cargo Vessels:

21 Sept 1970: M. V. Wodan. 222 tons. 700 barrels herring. 2d per barrel: Tonnage dues: £5-11-0.

Cargo dues: £5-16-8. Light dues: 4s 7d. Rope money £2. Total dues: £13-12-3

1 Sept. H/T Heinrichluther. No. AE 8

5 Sept. M.V. Heinrichsdoree.  No. AE 10.

6 Sept. M.V. Holdren. No. SC8

6 Sept. Wilhelmina Johanna. No. K.N. 39

8 Sept. Kecs etc. NUR. No. KW 49

9 Sept. L. M. Dencker. No. AE 1

9 Sept. Luige En Rudge. No. VL 153

9 Sept. Michel Yan. No. VL. 110

10 Sept. Marian Ellen. No. KW 159

10 Sept. Vikart. No. H 123 B

10 Sept. Willem. No. VL 121

13 Sept. Margaretha. No. S H. 30 F

In the year 1884 a visitor to Killybegs wrote:

I made a pilgrimage to this holy well, and performed my station.  There was a Mission of the Oblate Fathers in Killybegs, and thousands were flocking daily from all the parishes of Southern Donegal to assist at the religious exercises.  All who came to the Mission made a pilgrimage to St Catherine’s Well, and made the usual station.  Some told their beads in the English tongue, but most of them prayed in the grand old Celtic tongue they had learned in infancy in the wild recesses of their mountain homes, at their own mother’s knee.

In that year of 1884, one hundred and forty years ago, a three week Mission was held in St Mary’s church.

In the ‘old days’ people travelling to attend a Mission in Killybegs parish would take the opportunity to attend St Catherine’s Well.  So it was one hundred and forty years ago, in the summer of 1884.   The crowds attending were so large that St Mary’s church could not hold them all.  A packed church on warm summer evenings called for special arrangements to be made.

This was an extended Mission as was the custom then, and lasted for over three weeks. It was conducted by Fathers Dawson, Lawrence, and Furlong, priests of the Oblate missionaries, assisted by the local clergy.

At that time church attendance was very high, and during a mission the numbers were bigger than ever.  The church was filled on the opening day, and on the following Sunday ‘the crush at the doors required all the powers of the committee to hold’.  As this was the pre-electricity era, the altar was ‘lighted up with numerous wax lights, and decorated with a great profusion of flowers and shrubs’. Huge numbers came from the surrounding parishes, and on this evening the church was ‘filled with devout worshippers during the Exposition’.  That sixteen priests were drafted to hear confessions gives an indication of the numbers.

But it was to get more intense.  The closing ceremonies of the Mission took place on Sunday, 31^st August.  The day was hot and humid.  Conditions within the church would be stifling.  The ceremonies commenced with Solemn High Mass at 12 noon.  Leading the choir was Thomas Colin MacGinley, (father of Bishop John Bernard MacGinley), assisted by Teresa Wade on the harmonium.  People of a certain age will remember this lady as ‘Mrs McShane’ who resided in the premises now occupied by the Milis cafe on Upper Main Street. Father Lawrence gave the usual long sermon. 

The evening service commenced at 6 o’clock, and long before that time the church was crowded to suffocation on that close and clammy evening.  The sanctuary was completely filled, and even the altar steps, so that it became impossible to proceed with the service. At the same time there was a crowd outside nearly as large as that inside, trying to get in.  The hot atmosphere in the church became unbearable.  Finally, the priests decided that they would adjourn to the open air to carry out the ceremonies.  They instructed the crowd outside to proceed to the yard of the Niall Mor School while the congregation within recited the Rosary.  Soon those inside began to file out slowly, and without panic.

A temporary altar was set up in front of the porch of the School, and the immense crowd took up their positions in the yard and on the adjoining School Hill. Rev Father Cassidy, C. C., Donegal, read the first table of the law, and the Rev Father Furlong, O.M.I., in a voice which was distinctly heard fully 300 yards away, proceeded to explain the duties of the people towards their Creator, laid down in the first table of the law, including the first three of the Commandments.  He concluded his sermon by asking the people to repeat the Act of Contrition in a loud voice, for their offences against the first three Commandments.  Father Cassidy then read the Commandments contained in the second table of the law, and Father Furlong continued his explanation of the Commandments relative to the duties of the people towards their neighbours.  Benediction of the Blessed Sacrament was given by Father Cassidy, and the Papal blessing imparting a plenary indulgence to those who had gone to confession and Holy Communion.

Their baptismal vows were then renewed by all present, including about five thousand persons, each holding a lighted candle.  It was a magnificent spectacle to see so many lights, extending over the old school yard (where the former church once stood), and along the sides of the hillsides. Father Furlong said he had never before seen such a beautiful sight.  By then night had set in, and the effect of so many lit candles created an immense feeling of devotion in those assembled. During the renewal of the baptismal vows the calm was so perfect that not a single light was extinguished, and the rain which fell a few miles distant during that time, passed over, with only a few drops falling.

This month marks the 140th anniversary of the sinking of the British gunboat Wasp off Tory Island on September 18, 1884. Originally tasked with patrolling Ireland’s western waters to prevent smuggling, gunboats like the Wasp had largely become obsolete by the 1880s, as large-scale smuggling had declined. By then, smuggling was mostly limited to transporting poitín from small ports west of Killybegs across Donegal Bay to Sligo. As a result, vessels such as the Wasp were often repurposed, delivering relief supplies like oats and seed potatoes to the western seaboard during crop failures.

The Wasp under sail. Courtesy of the Illustrated London News

The folklore surrounding the Wasp in Donegal has always carried an anti-British sentiment, stemming from its mission to evict families from Inistrahull Island. In the spring of 1883, the ship had been involved in famine relief efforts, delivering Quaker-supplied potatoes to various ports along the Donegal coast, including two visits to Tory Island. The crew reportedly disliked this work, finding it laborious and unpleasant.

By September 1884, the Wasp was hired by the police to transport bailiffs to Inistrahull Island to carry out evictions. The sailors resented this task as well, with some stating, “They never joined the British service to do the work of an agent or bailiff.” It was during this mission that the Wasp struck a reef near Tory Island and sank, resulting in the tragic loss of 52 crew members. This catastrophe is widely known, so its details will not be recounted here.

X marks the spot where the ship went down. (Image courtesy of the Illustrated London News)

The Wasp is connected to Killybegs through the marriages of three local women to sailors from the ship. In the summer of 1882, the Wasp docked at Killybegs, where Stoker David Flynn married 27-year-old Lizzie McGroarty. In 1883, another sailor, Fred Frost, married Jane McNelis. Lastly, just three months before the disaster, able seaman Albert J. West married Mary Cunningham in August 1884.

Another important figure with ties to Killybegs was Rev. J.J. O’Donnell, the parish priest on Tory Island at the time of the disaster. Previously the manager of Killybegs Industrial School and later the parish priest of Kilcar, Father O’Donnell played a key role in aiding the six survivors and providing spiritual care to those who perished. For his efforts, the British Admiralty acknowledged his “kindness and energy” during the tragedy. Father O’Donnell later passed away in Kilcar, where his headstone can still be seen outside the entrance of St. Cartha’s Church.

Lieutenant Commander Nicholls, the Wasp‘s captain, was among the victims. His body was recovered by Phil Boyle of Arranmore Island, who braved a heavy gale and rough seas to bring the captain ashore. Boyle described his efforts, recalling how he retrieved the naked body of Nicholls, who was likely on the bridge in his nightclothes when the ship went down. David Flynn’s body was later found washed ashore in Sheephaven Bay, while Fred Frost’s body was discovered on Innisbofin Island. Both men were buried in local graveyards. Their widows, Lizzie Flynn and Jane Frost, lived out their lives in Killybegs, passing away in 1937 and 1924, respectively. Mary West, who had married just before the disaster, died in 1936.  Jane Frost had a daughter, Mary Jane, but she died at age 15

Rosses Fishermen Drowned

The sinking of the Wasp overshadowed another local tragedy: the drowning of two Donegal fishermen around the same time. On the evening before the Wasp disaster, three Rosses fishermen—Morgan Sweeney, John O’Donnell, and Hugh O’Donnell—went to sea to retrieve their lobster pots amidst a brewing storm. After lifting the pots, their boat struck Carrickaphlanda rock and sank.  Hugh O’Donnell swam to safety, and was cared for by William Griffith of Termon House. Morgan Sweeney and John O’Donnell perished. John’s body was found the next morning near the wreck, and Morgan’s body was recovered a few days later.

THE COTTAGE

St Kieran’s some years ago

St Kieran’s in recent times

Located about a mile from Killybegs on the Donegal Road, St Kieran’s Cottage is a notable landmark on the left, just past the Little Cells Park. Currently, local contractor John Cunningham is undertaking its reconstruction. Once completed, the cottage will complement the neatness of the Park, and significantly improve the approach to the town, which is much needed.  

EDMOND RYAN

A son of a former Mayor of Limerick, Edmond Ryan named the cottage St Kieran’s when he resided there at the end of the 19^th century.  Following an earlier visit to Killybegs, he married local girl Ellen Jane McLoone. She was the eldest daughter of the wealthy and notorious Neil, the man who would go on to build the Royal Bay View Hotel.  But Edmond and Ellen Jane were not the first occupants of the cottage.

Ellen Jane and Edmond Ryan

THE RYANS OF LIMERICK

Edmond Ryan visited Killybegs and (a) fell in love with, or (b) was matched with Ellen Jane McLoone.  Ellen’s father was the most prominent merchant in Killybegs at that time.  The McLoone family lived in the premises now known as Sweet News.  Considering Neil’s fearsome reputation as disputatious and litigious, it would be odds-on that Ellen Jane fell under option (b) above.  The fact that Neil McLoone had to keep his six daughters in style might also have contributed to Ellen Jane’s fate. The extent of Neil McLoone’s influence is indicated by the fact that family photographs, including the one of Ellen Jane and Edmond above, were taken in Killybegs by the photographer of the famous William Lawrence company.

Edmond Ryan’s father moved in the upper levels of Limerick society, had been a former Mayor of City, and was reputed to be connected with the titled classes.  When his son Edmond was born, the Corporation of Limerick presented him with a solid silver table centre piece, incorporating a tiny silver cradle. 

Silver Christening Bowl incorporating a tiny cradle, presented on Edmond’s birth. (Photo courtesy of Limerick Museum)

Edmond and Ellen Jane McLoone were married in St Mary’s church in August 1884, she being 24 years of age, and he 26.  It was a ‘high society’ wedding.  (Killybegs high society – that is).  It was a social occasion not to be missed – whether you were invited or not. 

MOVING INTO THE COTTAGE

The newly married couple moved into St Kieran’s cottage some years after this.  In the eleventh year of the marriage Ellen Jane gave birth to a son in 1895, named Edmond Kieran after his father – he became known as Kieran in Killybegs. Edmond senior’s eccentric behaviour soon attracted local attention, with numerous tales depicting him as a foolish clown. There were many tales of his eccentricity, but no doubt these stories were much exaggerated by the local wags. It was said that he would often imagine himself as a priest, and had a habit of going into neighbours’ houses to say ‘Mass’.   Despite his devout religiosity and peculiar habits, Edmond saw himself as a leading citizen of Killybegs, attending public meetings where he always offered his opinion.   He was a popular choice for performing at concerts, where he entertained the audience with a first class singing voice, and his skill with musical instruments. 

For example, a concert was given in Killybegs in 1893 by the officers and men of the British gunboat Amelia, anchored in the harbour.  (See a note on the Amelia at the end).  At this concert Edmond demonstrated his extensive vocal range.  He ‘brought the house down’ when he sang the ‘Low-backed Car’, and in response to an encore he sang ‘Pat Molloy’. On another more solemn occasion –  the funeral of Mary Murrin of Bruckless (of the former Mary Murrin’s premises) in 1907- Edmond, accompanied by his young son, Kieran, in the church choir, played the harmonium and sang The Dead March from Saul.  He enacted the same performance at the funeral Mass of Mary’s husband, Joe, in 1903.

Of Edmond’s wife, Ellen Jane, very little can be said; she seemed to have lived a retiring life in her little cottage at Lough Head.  Eddie himself died in mysterious circumstances in Travers’s Hotel in Donegal town in 1928 where he had been staying for ten days.  He was found lying on the floor of his bedroom in the hotel, having suffered a heart attack.  Why he was staying there for that period was never made public.  He had received Holy Communion at first Mass in St Patrick’s church in the town on that morning, and had attended the eleven o’clock Mass also. 

JOSEPHINE McLOONE

Ellen Jane’s youngest sister, Josephine, who was known as ‘Josie’, married John Cleary, an engineer, in Dublin, in 1905.  Nothing is known of John Cleary except that he was a nephew of Janet Gunn, the wife of Captain John Gunn, of Killybegs. You will already know that Captain Gunn was sometime Divisional Commander of Coastguards for the Killybegs District, and resided in ‘The Moorings’, Church Road.

Following their marriage, Josie and John Cleary went to England where they ran a hotel in Bath.  The marriage was not a success, and Josie returned to Killybegs where she set up a millinery shop in the present Sweet News premises, her old home.  At this time she resided with her sister and nephew in St Kieran’s, Lough Head.   With advancing age and deteriorating eyesight Josie was committed to St Mary’s Home for the Blind and Partially Sighted, Dun Laoghaire, in 1953, and died there on May 3^rd, 1959.  

Josephine McLoone/Cleary

KIERAN RYAN

Josephine’s nephew Kieran was a popular figure about Killybegs for very many years, and although having an agreeable personality, exhibited some of the same traits as his father.  Naturally the local corner boys exaggerated whatever Kieran said, thereby making him out to be a simpleton, which he was not.

A small incident of the 1940s provided a wee story about Kieran.  As a child my parents bought me the Beano every week for I don’t know how long.  One day my mother, when we lived in Stonybatter, while down town shopping, she got the Beano to take home to me. This was bought in Mulhern’s newsagent’s shop on Elmwood Terrace. My regular readers will already know that Mr Mulhern wore his hummel doddies while behind the counter in his shop.  Unknown to herself my mother dropped the comic on the street, and went back to find it.  She found Kieran Ryan reading it outside the front door of Coanes’ Hotel (now Cope House), and he handed it over with a smile. Although the Beano was good fun for anyone, no adult in Killybegs would admit to reading it, but Kieran was so innocent that he did not care what people thought.  He was fond of playing chess, especially with Jack Kelly, N. T., something the same corner boys might struggle to accomplish.  The gentle Kieran died in St Joseph’s Home, Stranorlar in October 1971, aged 76.

A NOTE ON THE FAIAFANNON McCLOSKEYS

One other family is known to have lived in the cottage prior to the arrival of the Ryans. Francis McCloskey, an extensive sheep farmer, of Faiafannon House, resided there with his family.  Faiafannon is a townland which lies to the east of Killybegs, and the traveller must pass through it while going in the direction of the town reservoir.  The present Faiafannon House is not the original one; it was built by Michael Gallagher, a native of the place.

Francis McCloskey married Susan Kerrigan from Stranorlar in 1851. They had five children, starting in 1853: Ellen, Catherine, Joseph, Francis T. Kerrigan, and Dora. The mother died at the time Dora was born.  Francis married secondly Susan Brady of Killybegs, and a girl, Bella, was born to them. In 1870, Francis offered Faiafannon House for sale, and took up residence as a tenant in the cottage.  By 1878 Francis was dead and the tenancy passed to his widow, Susan.

Bella McCloskey, the youngest daughter of Francis and Susan (Brady), appears to have been born in the cottage.  She married James Murrin of Croaghlin in St Mary’s church, Killybegs, in 1894, and in 1897 became the mother of the Bridge Street publican, Jim Murrin. Jim, always prominent in the affairs of Killybegs, became the father of the late Co. Councillor and solicitor, Brendan.  Jim was born in January 1897, but his mother, Bella, died six weeks later at the age of 28.  Widower James Murrin married again, in July 1897 this time his bride was Mary Ann Conwell from the grocery shop where Hegartys’ Spar store is now located.  James and Mary Ann ran a public house on the corner of Old Bridge Street and Back Street.  Situated diagonally opposite Murrins’ pub stood Quigleys’ grocery shop, where Mary Ann’s sister, Lizzie, was the devoted wife of Dan Quigley, the proprietor of the shop, and pillar of Killybegs society.

OWEN’S BRAE

The brae leading up to Faiafannnon House is known as ‘Owen’s Brae’; the ‘Owen’s’ is pronounced locally as ‘Oin’s’, with a sound like ‘coins’. Owen McCloskey, the father of Francis, it was who most likely gave his name to ‘Owen’s Brae’ There was also an Owen McBrearty living in the area.  Francis McCloskey was the biggest farmer in the district, having held the entire townland of Crocknafeola under lease, as well as several other fields around and about Killybegs. 

THE GUNBOAT AMELIA

British gunboats were regular visitors to Killybegs throughout the nineteenth century, but by 1893 they were redundant.  The Amelia was launched in 1869, but she was first named HMS Hawk.  She was renamed Amelia in 1888, and again renamed HMS Colleen in 1905.  By the time of the First World War she was most likely a support ship for the submarine base in Killybegs harbour.  It was from the Colleen that engineman Robert Simpson, a native of Hull, was drowned in 1916.  He was interred in St John’s cemetery, Killybegs.

Stories of Killybegs Railway, Part 7

FATHER MARTIN’S BRIDGE

Next Tuesday, 23^rd April 2024 is the 130^th anniversary of the opening of Father Martin’s Bridge – a footbridge over the railway line near Killybegs.

The railbus from Donegal approaching Killybegs

In days gone by people bathed in the clear crystal waters of Killybegs harbour. 

A report in the summer of 1865 stated: Killybegs is par excellence, a watering place for a family of boys and girls.  There are no bathing boxes for the latter, but there are plenty of nooks at a little distance from the town where a modest maiden can prepare for her bath, and the boys can have ‘headers’ into deep water……the harbour is so beautiful, the clear green waters washing the grassy hills which sink and swell and undulate and stretch down to the water’s edge.

In July 1878 James McLaughlin of Seaview, offered his house for rent, under the heading SEA-BATHING – KILLYBEGS.  Seaview was the former O’Carroll home on St Catherine’s Road. 

In June 1899 a correspondent wrote: …..the inhabitants (of Killybegs should) join together and take steps to remove seaweed, rough stones, and other rubbish off the beach, preserving the bathing boxes in a sanitary manner and in a proper order for bathers. But the exact location was not identified.

In the same month a visitor to the town wandered down the new wooden pier where a coal boat was about to arrive. He said: Prior to the arrival of the steamer numbers of longshore men argue in a loud voice about diving, and while some protest that the feats of the circus man that dives from a height of 70 feet into a shallow tank are the most marvellous achievements of the age, there are others who maintain that the performances of the little boys of Killybegs, who can dive off the end of the pier and pick up a penny from the bottom of the water are just as remarkable. (DJ 30 June 1899)

There were two places within the harbour where bathing was possible – the first was at the Smooth Point where the new south pier is situated.  The Smooth Point was a favourite place for a dip but not suitable for tourists as the access was along the shore to avoid private land.   However, bathing at the Smooth Point came to an end when the sewerage outfall pipe from the new Sanatorium was routed into the sea there in 1950.  People will remember a large wooden notice erected at the low water mark at the Smooth Point, with OUTFALL painted on it.  The other suitable place within the harbour was at a patch of sand on the shore below Carnaween House, at a place known as Cormie’s Rock.  Carnaween House stands on this rock, which had to be cut back when they were making the Donegal Road in the 1840s, and again when the railway track was laid.  

THE BEACH AT CORMIE’S ROCK, AND FATHER MARTIN’S BRIDGE

The beach below Cormie’s Rock was ‘opened up’ for swimming soon after 1886 when a new parish priest came to Killybegs.  He was the Rev. Michael Martin, who was fascinated by the beauty of the harbour and its potential for tourism.  He personally organised the clearing of stones and wrack off the small strip of sand.

The location of the bridge, showing it crossing the railway

During these years people were encouraged to visit the seaside to avail of the bracing sea air and also to improve their health by swimming in the sea.  It was an era when the long piers were built into deep water at the resorts on the south coast of England. 

All was well until the railway arrived in the early 1890s.  Everyone welcomed the railway as a great boon to the entire district, but it had its drawbacks.  It is hard to imagine the disruption the railway caused in the tranquil village of Killybegs.  The first thing the railway did was to fence off a strip of land next the shore where the tracks would be laid.  No one could cross this fence on account of the danger of the speeding black monster – the steam engine with its wagons.  This was the era of horse-drawn vehicles.  The fence meant that bathers could no longer get to the beach, and the Coastguards were also prevented from running down to their Boat House at the shore.   The only slipway in the town, located at the Diamond near the present Tara Hotel, was also blocked off.  And finally the shore was filled in to create the Railway Yard.  This yard was built up against the entire east side of the old stone pier, and fifty percent of the berthage was lost.  The railway works cut off everyone from access to the shore, from the town out to Lough Head. The people were annoyed that their right of access had been taken away.

The former Coastguards’ Boatbouse, now a private dwelling

PUBLIC MEETING

Father Martin, being the leader of the community, called a public meeting in the old Niall Mor School.  He maintained that the railway took away a public right-of-way to the shore which had existed from time immemorial.  The PP imagined someone being drowned, and no way of getting to his rescue.  The meeting heard that the Coastguards would be getting a gateway in the fence, and a set of stone steps to allow them to reach their Boat House. Some people thought that his would solve the problem of access to the beach further along, as the public might use that gate.  It was pointed out that the gate would be locked, with the Coastguards having the key.  (The Coastguards did get their access to the Boat House, but it was described as being by ‘steep and dangerous steps without side walls – an insult to the Admiralty’).

Father Martin suggested that the solution would be to build a bridge over the railway line at Cormie’s Rock.  Prominent at the meeting were shopkeeper Owen Cunningham, great grandfather of Jimmy White, and Edmund Michael Ryan, who lived in St Kieran’s Cottage at Lough Head. (The one now being renovated).  Mr Ryan proposed that an injunction should be sought to stop all further work by the Board of Works in the area unless a bridge was granted. This resolution was not carried.

No doubt a period of negotiations took place but the end result was that the Board of Works agreed to build a metal bridge over the railway line at Cormie’s Rock.  It is not known who constructed the bridge, although it was erected by two men by the name of Mills.  This is known because the local sergeant prosecuted Henry Mills and Henry C. Mills, as well as four labourers for working at the bridge on the 11^th of September 1892, which happened to be the Sabbath.  The case was dismissed by the local magistrates, one of whom was Captain Coleman.

OPENING OF THE BRIDGE

The bridge was finished in 1894, and formally opened on Monday the 23^rd April of that year.  The Ladies and Gentlemen of the town donned their best finery and gathered at the site at Cormie’s Rock.  The opening ceremony was performed by Father Martin himself, who cracked a bottle of champagne on the bridge, and wished it long stability, with health and happiness to all who shall pass over it.  Captain Coleman, R. N., proposed: That inasmuch as the bridge was procured for us through the influence and exertions of the Rev. Michael Martin, P. P., it be called the Martin’s Bridge in his honour.

Father Martin responded: Ladies and Gentlemen – I appreciate the great compliment you have paid me in recognition of my humble efforts to procure for you this bridge.  I trust that the Donegal Railway Company will now improve the bathing places along the shore, and erect bathing boxes which would be patronised by the public.  It should be their object to encourage bathers to come here, and it is quite certain they will not come back again unless they are able to get a good, safe, and pleasant bath in the salt water. The railway authorities have given us the bridge over the railway, but you see there is still something to be done to complete the way to the shore, which is steep and rugged.  It now remains for you to add to it some stone steps, which can be done and will cost very little. 

The entrance to the bridge was by two cut stone pillars, exactly opposite the steps leading to Carnaween House.  A flight of steps led down to the flat surface of the bridge, and more steps continued down to ground level at the shore.  A commemorative stone, executed by Patrick Quinn of Mountcharles, was inserted in one of the gate pillars; here’s the inscription:

Erected in honour of The Rev. Michael Martin, P.P. Killybegs, Through whose exertion This bridge was obtained. 1894.

The bridge was decorated for the opening ceremony by the Coastguards with a display of beautiful flags floating on the breeze. When the ceremony was over, a number of the men made their way to Rogers’s Hotel, where they celebrated the occasion by drinking the health of Mr Balfour, who sanctioned the railway when he was Chief Secretary.

THE 20^th CENTURY

The Lough Head bathing place or Father Martin’s Bridge do not feature much in local stories of days spent swimming, so information on its existence in later years is hard to find.  Marie Thornton, now living out of town, remembers that the town Development Association had a diving board erected below the Bridge in May 1950.  This might have been to upgrade the spot on account of the Smooth Point becoming ‘out of bounds’ from that time.  The locals continued to use the bridge for access to the beach up until the railway closed in 1959, and maybe for longer.

Between the Wars the Killybegs regattas sometimes included swimming races in the harbour.  The 1930 regatta included a swimming race which was won by Charlie Breslin, with Jimmy Green second. (The Green family lived in the large house on New Row where Dr Martin had his dental surgery).  In 1933 a swimming gala was held in the harbour, in which Jack Sweeney (mentioned in a previous blog) came second in the race for boys of 16 to 20 years of age.

Swimming contests were not a regular feature at the regattas, but there was another contest in 1960.   In that year the adult swimming races were won by out-of-town people.  In the junior section John Dick won the open race for under 16 boys; Desmond Sheridan came second.  Thomas Dorrian won the novices race (for boys under 14), with Conal Gillespie second.  Eileen Carr won the Ladies’ Open, with Maire McLaughlin second.

THE LAST MAN SWIMMING?

The last person to win a swimming race in the harbour was Frankie Murrin of Donegal Road, in the regatta of 1966.

Finally, the stone bearing the inscription and date of opening of the bridge has gone missing, although it is probably in some back yard about the town?   Could this stone be found and made visible at some spot – it would be little enough recognition for someone who did so much for Killybegs?

Stories of Killybegs Railway, Part 6

The Era of Excursions.

Before the railway came to Killybegs, the easiest way to visit the town was by sea.  As there was a strong economic and social connection between the two places, there was plenty of seaborne traffic to and fro, down the years.  The economic connection was by way of the smacks that traded across the Bay from Teelin, Killybegs, and Bruckless.  The social interaction was boosted annually by the Killybegs Regatta, which was patronised from the beginning by the Sligo yachtsmen.

People also came to Killybegs by road, to see the famous harbour, and to visit the cliffs at Slieve League.  One visitor left his account when visiting Killybegs in the summer of 1893, just as the Railway was about to be opened. The town pier (the old wooden one), was not yet built.   The visitor said:

“If Bray be termed the ‘Queen of watering-places, Killybegs well may be styled the ‘King’.  The village never looked prettier than this year.  On account of the weather being so fine and the scenery as beautiful the attraction to tourists who visited Killybegs before was irresistible.  Hence many are here much earlier than in former years.  The village is beautifully situated at the extremity of the splendid harbour at Killybegs – second to none in Ireland.  At all the tides, steamers of any tonnage can ride at anchor in whatever place in the harbour they wish to select. 

The water is very deep, and the anchorage could not be safer.  The only drawback to steamers and cruisers is the want of a proper pier at which they could discharge cargoes, but this is expected to be remedied by the present Government.  However there is a good slip, and this is of much advantage to fishermen and visitors, who can land at any time.  Every facility for boating and bathing is afforded at all times.  The hotel accommodation is excellent, and being a visitor, I can safely assert that the attendance given to strangers cannot be rivalled in Ulster – or perhaps in Ireland – and the charges are very moderate.  The railway, which is almost completed, will be a great factor in helping to develop this interesting resort.  Should tourists desire to visit Slieve League, Bun Glas, or Muckross Caves, they can go either by boat or car in three or four hours. 

The mountain scenery on the other hand beggars all description.  The place is bounded on the north by beautiful heath-clad hills, well stocked with every species of game, affording great sport to tourists.  A beautiful seat at Fintra, about one and a half miles from Killybegs, with a lovely grove abounding with pheasants.  A nice strand to the rear of the house – where horse racing is often held – and a well-attended garden that can be seen at any time, tops the climax. 

There is a celebrated rocking stone at a place called Largynagreana, which I am to visit tomorrow.  To finish up for the present I will repeat that a more satisfactory place for bathing, a more beautiful seat for scenery, for civility unrivalled, and for hotel accommodation unequalled, it has never been my lot to experience before”.

Photo courtesy of the National Library

Photo courtesy of the National Library.

Photo courtesy of Paddy Byrne.

Today’s tourists can enjoy much more than Slieve League cliffs by taking a dip while on one of Paddy Byrne’s boat trips.  The rock in the background is Tor Poll na nImeall.